Having passed through Gonder, right now Monica is in Debark, Ethiopia. There she will see "if I can get a seat in a 4x4 headed to the Semiens," the country's northern, highest mountain range. From Lalibela, built as a "New Jerusalem" after Muslims captured Jerusalem in 1099, she wrote: My first day, I went to St. Giorgis, a cruciform church cut into solid rock. And I don't mean flinty, flaky rock--I mean rock as hard as meteors. And just explored and sat there for hours, writing and thinking and looking. There are hermits' cells carved into the surrounding rock, and I crawled into one and sat there cross-legged for a bit. Very comfortable. But one of the guides came over, looking concerned, so I crawled out again trying to explain, I'm a writer, I just wanted to see what it was like!